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Adventures in Cemetery Hopping

~ A blog by Traci Rylands

Adventures in Cemetery Hopping

Monthly Archives: May 2014

A Climb Up The Wedding Cake: Visiting Myrtle Hill Cemetery

23 Friday May 2014

Posted by adventuresincemeteryhopping in General

≈ 1 Comment

I enjoy discovering small, tucked away cemeteries. But I’ve got to admit, sometimes I love “hopping large”!

Myrtle Hill Cemetery is the second oldest cemetery in Rome, Ga. The cemetery covers 32 acres and about 20,000 people are buried there.

Myrtle Hill Cemetery is the second oldest cemetery in Rome, Ga. The cemetery covers 32 acres and about 20,000 people are buried there.

Myrtle Hill Cemetery came to my attention last year when I wrote a post on famous ladies who are buried in Georgia. So when my husband announced he and our son were going on a “guys only” road trip in May, I made a mental note to visit Myrtle Hill while they were away. My fellow Church Chick, Sarah, agreed to ride shotgun.

I hadn’t been to Rome since the 80s when I visited my high school friends Melissa and Valerie, who were attending Berry College at the time. I’ve seen Melissa several times since then but haven’t had much contact with Valerie. As it turns out, she recently returned to Rome to become pastor of a Methodist Church. Via Facebook, we arranged to meet for lunch during my visit.

At first, Sarah and I weren’t sure things would go well because it started to rain about 10 miles outside of Rome. But little will deter a cemetery hopper when she’s got her mind set on something. We parked in the lot beside the bridge that leads into downtown Rome and with umbrellas in hand, started out.

Umbrellas were the order of the day during the first half of our hop. Myrtle Hill is still an active cemetery and recently added a new mausoleum, which Sarah gave her thumbs up to.

Umbrellas were a necessity during the first half of our hop. Myrtle Hill is still an active cemetery and recently added a new mausoleum, which Sarah gave her thumbs up to.

Myrtle Hill was a battle site long before it became a cemetery. In 1793, along with about 800 troops, General John Sevier (in an unauthorized plan) pursued a band of about 1,000 Cherokee Indians to nearby Cartersville seeking to avenge the scalping of 13 settlers near Knoxville, Tenn. (among other reasons). The result was the Battle of Hightower. Sevier later became governor of Tennessee and the town of Sevierville (outside Pigeon Forge) was named after him. A monument in his honor is on the edge of the cemetery.

The Cherokee created a defensive position on Myrtle Hill and used a guard to try to prevent Sevier from fording the Etowah River below. Ultimately, the Cherokees failed and after their leader, Kingfisher, was killed, they fled and Sevier burned down their village.

In 1850, nearby Oak Hill Cemetery had filled up and the need grew for a new cemetery in Rome. The hill, known for its Vinca minor (trailing myrtle), was an early candidate. The land was purchased from Shorter College (formerly Rome Female College) namesake Alfred Shorter. In 1857, Myrtle Hill Cemetery opened.

This is the monument for Col. Alfred Shorter and his wife, Mary. Shorter was the previous co-owner of Myrtle hill. He was also the namesake of what is now Shorter College.

This is the monument for Col. Alfred Shorter and his wife, Martha. Shorter was the previous co-owner of the land Myrtle Hill is on. He was also the namesake of what is now Shorter College.

The cemetery was soon put to use during the Civil War when an earthwork fortification named Fort Stovall was built atop it. Today, the Confederate dead monument stands atop Myrtle Hill where the fighting most likely took place, while the actual Confederate dead are buried down by the cemetery gates.

Myrtle Hill's Confederate monument sits atop the cemetery where Fort probably once stood during the Civil War.

Myrtle Hill’s Confederate monument sits atop the cemetery where Fort Stovall probably once stood during the Civil War. I took this picture after lunch when the rain stopped.

A monument honoring controversial Confederate Brigadier General Nathan Bedford Forrest, who saved Rome from Union forces in 1863, was originally situated at a downtown intersection. I’ve heard that it distracted drivers so much that it had to be moved to the cemetery, where it now stands.

I've read that this monument of Confederate General Nathan Bedford Forrest (erected by the United Daughters of the Confederacy in 1903) proved to be a distraction to drivers when it was in downtown Rome so they moved it to Myrtle Hill.

I’ve read that this monument of Confederate Brigadier General Nathan Bedford Forrest (erected by the United Daughters of the Confederacy in 1908) proved to be a distraction to drivers when it was in downtown Rome so they moved it to Myrtle Hill.

The structure of Myrtle Hill can be compared to a wedding cake with graduated layers leading to the stop. Lines of grave markers are situated along these “layers”, watched over by a canopy of trees and other greenery. This photo by Drew Tyndell does it more justice than my iPhone can.

Myrtle Hill Cemetery is situated across the bridge over the Etowah River and is structured almost like a wedding cake with “layers” you can walk up. Photo courtesy of Drew Tyndell.

One of the graves I most wanted to see was that of First Lady Ellen Axson Wilson. She was the first wife of President Woodrow Wilson and the only First Lady buried in Georgia. Her monument was even lovelier in person than photos indicate, with beautiful roses placed at the base. Mrs. Wilson was an artist herself and I think she would have appreciated the work that went into the stone.

First Lady Ellen Axson Wilson is buried beside her father, the Rev. Samuel Axson. It was in his church that the Wilsons first met.

First Lady Ellen Axson Wilson is buried beside her father, the Rev. Samuel Axson. It was in his church that the Wilsons first met.

Another famous resident of Myrtle Hill is Dr. Robert Battey, the first physician to successfully perform an oophorectomy (removal of the ovaries) on Julia Omberg. The procedure was supposedly performed on the patient’s kitchen table and afterward, Dr. Battey remained at Omberg’s side for the next several days until her recovery was assured. My research indicates a lynch mob waited outside in case this did not happen. Happily, Mrs. Omberg lived well into her 80s, thanks to Dr. Battey. His tomb is near the top of the hill.

I'm not sure what the flowers and butterfly symbolize on Dr. Robert Battey's tomb. But it's probably the largest one in the Cemetery, including its tall spire you can see from afar.

After his successful surgery, Dr. Battey became professor of obstetrics at the Atlanta Medical College where he stayed until 1875. He practiced medicine until his death on November 8, 1895.

WHAT???

WHAT???

For some reason, there was an empty tampon box at the foot of Dr. Battey’s tomb. Considering that he performed the first operation removing a woman’s ovaries, we couldn’t help laughing.

Here you can see the top of Dr. Battey's tomb while getting a beautiful view of downtown Rome.

Here you can see the top of Dr. Battey’s tomb while getting a beautiful view of downtown Rome.

The terraced sides of Myrtle Hill fascinate me. After lunch with Val, when the rain stopped and the sun came out, I explored them. Some of the stones are in better shape than others, but all in all, it’s a lovely forest-like setting.

These terraced grave sites make for a peaceful setting but require some definite physical fitness if you are climbing up the many steps on the hillside.

These terraced grave sites make for a peaceful setting but require some definite physical fitness if you are climbing up the many steps on the hillside. The graves of Charles and Bittie Warner are the two block-type stones in the front.

One of the more intriguing people whose grave I photographed was Charles Jacques Warner, a native of England who came to America 1848. He married Elizabeth “Bittie” Brown in Virginia, where they had two children. They purchased a photography studio in Rome and with Bittie’s help, it became a success. Charles was also a talented musician who gave lessons.

According to a wonderful blog post by Lee Eltzroth, Charles left town around 1880 with one of his beautiful female pupils (and dragged his daughter Lula along) to pursue his dreams in New York City.

Bittie, however, did not sit at home and weep. She tracked Charles down. While he and his young lover had taken jobs in a minstrel show, young Lula had been forced to perform in a stage play, which horrified Bittie. Eventually, Bittie got full custody of Lula and returned with her to Rome. Oddly enough, Charles is listed in the 1900 U.S. Census as again living with his family in Rome, so Bittie must have taken him back. Despite Charles’ “midlife crisis”, Lee reports that when he died on Nov. 29, 1906, the newspapers in Rome called him “an old and highly respected citizen of this city.”

Myrtle Hill Cemetery is also home to some of the most interesting angel monuments I’ve ever seen, with quite a variety of expressions. I’ll share a few and you can judge.

Holding what looks to be an open Bible, this angel has an almost defiant look on her face as she gazes Heavenward.

Holding what looks to be an open Bible, this angel has an almost defiant look on her face as she gazes Heavenward.

By contrast, this angel seems more forlorn and pensive than the first one. Still, the detail of the lace edge of her gown is eye-catching.

By contrast, this angel seems more forlorn and pensive than the first one. Still, the detail of the lace edge of her gown is eye-catching.

This last angel is lost in thought, her eyes trained on the Bible below. Her wings caught my attention more than her face.

This last angel is lost in thought, her eyes trained on the Bible below. Her wings caught my attention more than her face.

There’s a lot more to Myrtle Hill Cemetery but these are the highlights that I enjoyed the most. High on that list is reuniting with Valerie, who is just as sweet and funny as I remember her being.

It was the icing on the “cake” of my visit to Rome. 🙂

Back in the U.S.S.R.: Lenin and “Extreme Embalming”

16 Friday May 2014

Posted by adventuresincemeteryhopping in General

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The death of New Orleans socialite Mickey Easterling made headlines in April. At her wake, she was posed amid a garden tableau resembling her own backyard, sitting with a glass of champagne in her hand, a pink boa swathing her neck.

Mickey Easterling loved being the center of attention when she was alive and wanted it that way when she died.

Mickey Easterling loved being the center of attention when she was alive and wanted it that way after she died.

Then there’s David Morales Colón. Funeral home staff placed him on his favorite motorcycle in a unique “viewing ceremony” that his family requested after he was shot in San Juan, Puerto Rico in May 2012.

David Morales Colón was only 22 when he died. The funeral directors at Marin Funeral Home in San Juan's Hato Rey neighborhood are known for their expertise in "extreme embalming" techniques.

David Morales Colón was only 22 when he died. The funeral directors at Marin Funeral Home in San Juan’s Hato Rey neighborhood are known for their expertise in “extreme embalming” techniques.

These example of “extreme embalming” can take hours of painstaking work. According to Caleb Wilde, a funeral director who writes one of my favorite blogs, “Most funeral homes, the most extreme thing they might do is dressing the deceased in shorts. So it’s a very rare thing.”

When it comes to extreme embalming, the pioneer personality of this trend has to be Russian revolutionary Vladimir Lenin. You can still visit his tomb today and see his body, which many do.

As leader of the Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic from 1917, Lenin also served concurrently as Premier of the Soviet Union from 1922 until his death. Under his leadership, the Russian Empire was toppled and became the Soviet Union, a one-party socialist state. Industry and businesses were nationalized.

It's safe to say that Vladimir Lenin had no idea that after his death, his tomb would become a tourist attraction for decades to come.

It’s safe to say that Vladimir Lenin had no idea that after his death, his tomb would become a tourist attraction for decades to come. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

According to a Jewish World Review article, when Lenin died of a stroke and heart attack in 1924, his widow said he wanted to be buried next to his mother in a simple cemetery plot. However, Soviet dictator Joseph Stalin and Felix Dzerzhinsky (head of the secret police) pushed for the preservation of Lenin’s remains. With the notion they would freeze their revered leader, they ordered a special freezer to be built in Germany to do the job.

Unfortunately, building the freezer took too long and Lenin’s body began to deteriorate. By using a then untested chemical process, Lenin was embalmed and his skin gently treated to preserve a life-like appearance. A team led by Vladimir Vorobiov, an anatomy professor from Ukraine, did the work. Had they failed, it probably would have resulted in their death.

Today, Lenin is entombed in a massive granite and marble mausoleum in Red Square. Sealed in a glass sarcophagus, Lenin’s body is maintained at 61 degrees, with the humidity between 80 and 90 percent.

Situated on the edge of Red Square in Moscow, Lenin's Tomb is a popular stop for tourists.

Situated in Red Square in Moscow, Lenin’s Tomb is a popular stop for tourists. In 2003, about 1.5 million tourists visited the mausoleum. Photo couresty of RIA Novosti Ustinov.

Yuri Denisov-Nikolsky has been helping keep Lenin in the pink since the 70s. “He looks quite fine, as good as he did 30 years ago,” he said in 2004. “He looked terrible when he died, but what you see now is Lenin’s face, not someone else’s.”

Filtered lighting gives Lenin’s face a warm glow. Botox, collagen and modern cosmetics aren’t used, Denisov-Nikolsky said. A mild bleach is used to fight off occasional fungus stains or mold spots on Lenin’s face.

Specially filtered lighting gives Lenin's face a warm glow. Botox, collagen and modern cosmetics aren't used. A mild bleach is used to combat occasional fungus stains or mold spots on Lenin's face.

Special lighting gives Lenin’s face a glow. Modern chemicals like Botox aren’t used. A mild bleach is used to combat occasional fungus stains or mold spots on Lenin’s face.

According to Denisov-Nikolsky, Lenin’s skin is examined closely each week, using special Russian-made instruments that measure moisture, color and contour. He said dehydration and time are the main enemies.

Lenin gets an extreme makeover every 18 months. The mausoleum is closed for two months and the body is immersed in a bath of glycerol and potassium acetate for 30 days. The skin slowly absorbs the solution, regaining its moisture and elasticity.

Ilya Zbarsky worked on the body from 1934 to 1952. His father, Boris, participated in the original embalming in 1924. According to Zbarsky, Lenin’s blood, bodily fluids and internal organs were removed as part of the initial embalming. His eyebrows, moustache and goatee are his original hair.

Lenin lies in state in an elaborate sarcophagus. Photo courtesy of ABC News.

Lenin lies in state in an elaborate sarcophagus. Photo courtesy of ABC News.

The whereabouts of Lenin’s heart are unknown. But his brain was supposedly examined by a renowned German scientist to find potential clues to his alleged genius. It’s kept at a Moscow institute. But according to Zbarsky, it’s not easy to see it. “It’s mostly dissected.”

During World War II, the Soviets feared a direct hit by the Nazis. So they secretly shipped Lenin, whom they code-named “Object No. 1”, to a warehouse in central Russia. He was returned to the mausoleum in March 1945.

When Soviet Premier Joseph Stalin died in 1953, he was embalmed by the Zbarskys’ former assistants at the mausoleum. Stalin shared it with Lenin for eight years. Then he was officially discredited, removed and buried under the Kremlin wall. According to Ilya Zbarsky, Muscovites made up a new saying: “Don’t sleep in a mausoleum that doesn’t belong to you.”

For a few years, Lenin and Stalin shared the same mausoleum before public opinion turned.

For a few years, Lenin and Stalin shared the same mausoleum before public opinion turned.

With the Soviet Union breakup in 1991, the Russian government stopped financing the preservation of Lenin’s body, Denisov-Nikolsky said. Private donations pay for his 15-person staff at a research lab called Medical Biological Technologies.

The mausoleum staff also visits Vietnam to check on the body of Ho Chi Minh, on display in Hanoi. Denisov-Nikolsky was on the Soviet team that secretly embalmed “Uncle Ho” in a North Vietnamese jungle cave in 1970.

The staff that maintain's Lenin's body also supervises the condition of North Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh in his Hanoi tomb.

The staff that maintains Lenin’s body also supervises the condition of North Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Minh in his Hanoi tomb.

According to a recent poll by the Public Opinion Foundation in Moscow, nearly 60 percent of Russians younger than 50 want Lenin to be removed and buried. “Only people over 50 more frequently reply that they’re against Lenin’s burial,” said Foundation President Alexander Olson. This age group views “suggestions that the body be removed as blasphemous.”

Some argue that an emerging democracy, even if it’s a democracy in name only, should stop maintaining monuments to a dictator responsible for decades of suffering and millions of deaths.

“The body should be removed, yes, and it should cease to be an object of worship,” Zbarsky said. “It should be buried or kept in a laboratory somewhere.”

I would have to agree.

Savannah’s Secrets: Visiting Colonial Cemetery

09 Friday May 2014

Posted by adventuresincemeteryhopping in General

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You may remember that back in February, I took a short but memorable trip to Savannah. My journey included a stop at one of the South’s oldest burial grounds — Colonial Cemetery. It’s a wonderful place to amble through, chock full of history. But it also has a few secrets it seems reluctant to part with.

With its entrance built by the Savannah chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, Colonial Cemetery is the oldest one in existence in the city.

With its current entrance built in 1931 by the Savannah chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, Colonial Cemetery is the oldest one still in existence in the city.

Sitting in the center of the Historic District, Colonial is thought to be the oldest cemetery still in existence in the city (which was established as a British colony by General James Oglethorpe in 1733). When you walk through the gates, it doesn’t seem like there are that many grave stones present. But while there are about 600 or so visible markers in Colonial, it is home to an estimated 10,000 graves. Historians aren’t even sure if the markers that remain are placed where they were originally due to so many changes to the place over the years.

Colonial Cemetery contains the graves of many famous Savannah residents, from a signer of the Declaration of Independence to one of the world's best miniature painters.

Colonial Cemetery contains the graves of many famous Savannah residents, from a signer of the Declaration of Independence to one of the world’s best miniature painters.

Colonial opened for burials in 1750. Over the years, it expanded from a few acres to its current six. At one point, it was larger than its current borders would indicate. So when construction occurs in the area, bones from those unmarked graves are often found. Eventually, Colonial closed to burials in 1853 for lack of space.

This undated photo of Colonial Cemetery shows how it probably looked when the City managed the property. They went out of their way to obscure the brick tombs with plant life.

This undated photo of Colonial Cemetery shows how it probably looked when the Park and Tree Commission managed the property in the late 1800s. They went out of their way to obscure the brick tombs with foliage. Why?

What you’ll immediately notice as you stroll down the paths is that there are a number of brick tombs. I had only seen a few of these before and they were at Oakland Cemetery in Atlanta. During Savannah’s early years, the city did not have access to the fine marble crypts that later Savannah cemeteries like Laurel Grove Cemetery have. Brick was what they had to build with, so I am guessing that’s why they favored it.

One of the first things you notice at Colonial are the brick tombs.

One of the first things you notice at Colonial are the brick tombs.

In 1999, the Chicora Foundation (a non-profit heritage preservation organization) was hired to do an in-depth study of Colonial Cemetery. Of special interest were these brick tombs and their construction. You can read the report here.

What I learned from Chicora’s report is that these tombs were made primarily with two kinds of bricks. “Savannah Grays” were actually more red and brown than gray, locally made, large and not well-fired. By contrast, “Philadelphia” bricks were slightly smaller and very hard by comparison. These were probably imported from the North and were also being used in many of the buildings taking shape in the city at that time.

While the styles of these brick tombs varied a bit, they were mostly built from the same materials.

While the styles of these brick tombs vary a bit, they were mostly built from the same materials.

One of Colonial’s more famous former residents was General Nathanael Greene, a decorated Revolutionary War hero and friend of President George Washington (who visited Savannah in 1791). A native of Rhode Island, Greene is best known for his successful command in the Southern Campaign in which he forced British General Charles Cornwalis to give up the Carolinas.

Portrait of Nathanael Greene by Charles Wilson Peale in 1783, just a few years before he died.

Portrait of General Nathanael Greene by Charles Wilson Peale in 1783, just a few years before he died.

Greene was buried in Colonial after his death at his Georgia estate, Mulberry Grove, in 1786. However, in 1901, there was a push to have Greene’s remains buried in Johnson Square under a monument in his honor. The problem was, nobody was quite sure which tomb he was buried in!

The exact location of Nathanael Greene's remains were a mystery until 1901.

The exact location of Nathanael Greene’s remains were a mystery until 1901.

ColonialGrahamVault1

The bricks at the foot of both tombs indicate the place where entry was made.

Col. Asa Bird Gardiner, president of the Rhode Island State Society of the Cincinnati (an organization for descendants of military officers of the Revolutionary War), was assigned the task of finding Greene’s remains. From notes left by Greene’s grandson, all they knew was that the man was taller than average and had a wide, prominent forehead. Not much to go on compared to the forensic technology we have access to today.

But Gardiner (with help) eventually had success:

He heard something clatter inside the sieve and plucked from it three metal buttons with a patina of green. He wiped one button clean and saw the faint outline of an eagle. Gardiner recognized these as buttons worn by officers of the Revolution. Keenan then found a French silk glove filled with finger bones. French silk had been a luxury during the Revolution. Keenan found a second glove full of bones. He then found a third glove stiff with finger bones. Obviously more than one person had been entombed on this side of the vault. (From the article “Recovering the Remains of General Nathanael Greene” by Gerald M. Carbone.)

The second person turned out to be Greene’s oldest son, who drowned at the age of 18. The elder Greene’s identity was also confirmed by the discovery of an engraved nameplate on the coffin. Both Greene and his son’s remains were removed and now rest in Johnson Square underneath a large monument.

Johnson Square is the final resting place of Nathanael Greene and his son. Photo courtesy of www.visithistoricsavannah.com.

Johnson Square is the final resting place of Nathanael Greene and his son. Photo courtesy of visithistoricsavannah.com.

As a result of its hot, humid climate and (in its early days) unsanitary conditions, Savannah had the dubious honor of enduring several Yellow Fever epidemics over the years. Thousands of people who died during those epidemics are buried in Colonial Cemetery. Many of their graves are unmarked.

In colonial days, trash and human waste were often dumped into the street. It's little surprise disease frequently swept the city.

In colonial days, trash and human waste were often dumped into the street. It’s little surprise disease frequently swept the city.

One of Colonial’s most fascinating and enduring features is its long wall of old broken headstones salvaged from the past. They are a result of one of Colonial’s periods of renovation in 1895 when the Park and Tree Commission took over. Their efforts to shape the cemetery into something akin to a public park included planting masses of foliage over many of the tombs and gravestones. Why? I have no idea.

Hundreds of these fragments of grave markers line one entire wall of the cemetery. Some of them have altered dates on them, supposedly done by Union soldiers who reportedly camped in Colonial during the Civil War.

Hundreds of these fragments of grave markers line one entire wall of the cemetery. Some of them have altered dates on them, supposedly done by Union soldiers who reportedly camped in Colonial during the Civil War.

Some of the markers have altered dates on them, but I did not see many. The story goes that Union Soldiers who camped in Colonial Cemetery during the Civil War did it in an attempt to get back at the Confederate Forces. Many of them reminded me of the stones I saw in Charleston, especially the ones with the weeping willow motif. So many of those buried here died young, some even shortly after they were born.

The weeping willow motif is a common grief symbol on grave markers in the South.

The weeping willow motif is a common grief symbol on grave markers in the South.

Finally, one last thing I should mention is that several prominent Savannah gentlemen are buried here as a result of the “dueling era” that took place from the 1730s to the 1870s. Some of them were fought for the flimsiest of reasons. Many even say some of these duels took place in Colonial Cemetery itself, but that is a bit of a mystery.

In the case of Button Gwinnett, who signed the Declaration of Independence and is the man for whom Georgia’s Gwinnett County is named, he died as the result of his wounds from a duel he fought with his political rival, Col. Lachlan McIntosh. Why a duel? Gwinnett tried to lead a campaign against British-controlled East Florida in order to secure Georgia’s border, but McIntosh was against it. Gwinnett challenged his enemy to a duel and while both were wounded, Gwinnett died.

Button Gwinnett's signature is considered incredibly rare. In 1979, a letter signed by Gwinnett brought $100,000 at a New York auction.

Button Gwinnett’s signature is considered incredibly rare and valuable by collectors. In 1979, a letter signed by Gwinnett brought $100,000 at a New York auction. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.

Since nobody is quite sure where Gwinnett is buried, this monument honors his contributions to Georgia history.

Since nobody is quite sure where Gwinnett is buried, this monument honors his contributions to Georgia history. That’s my niece, Hannah, standing beneath it.

There are a number of ghost stories surrounding Colonial but they really don’t interest me much. The history of the place is fascinating enough. When I was there, I felt rather solemn. The awareness that so many people were buried there during Savannah’s tumultuous early years was great.

And many took this city’s secrets with them to the grave.

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